Without doubt the most spectacular sections of coastline in Anglesey.
The full trip, measuring about 12 miles should be considered, in order to fully appreciate the whole picture. Taxis are scarce and the bus service infrequent. Please check details, prior to commencement of one way walk.
A lunch break at Cemaes will be a most pleasant interlude, prior to walking east-wards to Bull Bay, with radiant beams of sunshine enhancing the landscapes ahead. Bull Bay is a small resort, situated off the main A5025 road, about 20 miles north-west of Henllys, reached via Pentraeth.
When Bull Bay Hotel appears ahead depart from the main road. Turn left, beyond the lifeboat station to find a small car park.
From the car park return to the sea front, turn left, passing the hotel to reach the coastal footpath and there to embark upon a wondrous journey! The sea to your right.
The route is self evident until approaching a large, picturesque bay – Porth Wen, which holds a well preserved, redundant, brickworks founded in Victorian times by a Liverpool-based brick manufacturer named Tidy. Three circular kilns and two square chimneys remain intact.
During a visit Tidy noted the brick-making potential at Porth Wen. Two factors influenced his decision – substantial quantities of local clay, and deep water in the bay, which would facilitate transportation by ship.
On reaching the bay follow the path, curving upwards, towards a white painted house (Castell).
Pass the landward side of the house, to a stile, then cross the open pasture aiming for a huge arrow painted on the facing rocks. Pass through a gate, follow the cliff edge path into an archway of hawthorn and blackthorn bushes.
A ladder stile on the left, leads through an area of bracken (steps and footbridge). Beyond these there’s a waymarker. Veer right, descending, towards the cliff edge. Cross two footbridges, rising to a ladder stile. Cross this, turn right (gate) along a clear path, at a waymark ignore the left fork – continue bearing slightly right. This path gradually arching left.
Pass the winding gear attendant to the brickworks. Continue along the coastal path until a small inlet appears far below. This location is Hell’s Mouth. A tower on a distant hilltop confirms position.
Descend steeply and cross a stile in the depression, then ascend the opposing bank between the limestone rocks. A path runs through the tall bracken leading away from the sea. Use the white house as a guide.
Eventually, the path descends, to arrive at a junction – turn right to encounter a redundant China clay works, resting at Porth Llanlleiana. Climb the steps overlooking this idyllic location, then continue upwards through the bracken.
The island off the coast is Middle Mouse. Stride out along the undulating coastal path, keeping close to the left hand boundary at all times (a more defined path exists closer to the sea and should be avoided).
Reaching a point where Cemaes comes into view, note the substantial number of wind turbines inland. Also evident the nuclear power station at Wylfa Head and the distant light on West Mouse.
The coastal path rolls on, ascending more new steps (two more than Buchan’s novel) to arrive at Llanbadrig (St. Patrick) church, founded originally in 440 AD by the Saint, after being shipwrecked on Middle Mouse rocks.
Leaving the church continue, along the road, turning right towards the sea again, at a waymark. A left turn follows at the ensuing junction, then simply follow the coastal path to arrive at Cemaes harbour – and refreshments in the village, where there are pubs, cafes, restaurants etc.
Cemaes marks the end or half way point of this coastal journey. If the latter applies, do make sure your route stays close to the boundary on your right, between the sets of recently installed steps, on the return leg.
*Parys Mountain, three miles south of Bull Bay, was once the world’s largest copper mine. World copper prices were determined in accordance with the mines’ output. Port Amlwch expanded at a phenomenal rate because of the mining activities in the late 18th century.
The bankers, Lloyds, opened their first branch outside London at Amlwch, in order to handle the trading business. The old mine buildings and the attendant lunar landscape have attracted Heritage status, and are worth visiting.
Nearest Train (or tube) Station(s):